Chinatown

Continuing on my series on Hawker Centres in Singapore. Today's feature is Chinatown Complex. This series was also photographed with my Hasselblad H3D-39 with HC 4/28 lens, hand held. And BW conversion in Ps2020.

Once known as Kreta Ayer Complex, Chinatown Complex was part of the government’s efforts to address overcrowding and poor living conditions in the city. It would also drive an urban renewal, allowing a sizable population to remain in the central area, keeping it vibrant and allowing for old ties to be retained.

One of the largest Hawker Centres is located here, with some 800 stalls plying traditional cuisine with a splash of some hip stalls sprouting out recently selling craft beers, muffins and the like. A wall mural at one of the entrances.

The multi-story complex houses not only the food centre, but also a sundry shop area, and a wet market.

Dining is in large halls, with shared table infrastructure. Patrons are allowed to seat anywhere. Most of the stools are captive. The government is keeping an eye on crowds during these days of social distancing with tables sealed off, and Social Distancing Ambassadors patrolling the area, reminding patrons to keep a social distance and to wear masks except when eating or drinking. These ambassadors are also empowered to serve fines to offenders.

But the mainstay of the food centre is traditional Chinese food, like Soy Sauce Chicken. There are probably more than 10 stalls selling this dish. The most famous being Hawker Chan, which won a Michelin Star (yes, star, not Bib, or other street food mention, but a full Michelin star). It is still the cheapest Michelin Star establishment in the world. A meal of chicken with rice and a bowl of clear chicken soup (consomé) sells for S$3.00, about US$ 2.25).

Queues at Hawker Chan is usually very long, often an hour or more. Here is another stall, selling more or less the same food, soya sauce braised chicken. This one goes by a rather catching name - Maria's Virgin Soy Sauce Chicken. Maria is the name of the owner, and her father was reputed to be the mentor to Hawker Chan's celebrated chef.

As usual, I will be happy to answer any questions on our the Hawker culture and scene in Singapore, which was recently awarded the status of UNESCO's World Heritage.